“She knows what women want” has become something of a clichéd statement when it comes to designer Phoebe Philo, but clichés are clichés for a reason, and there is no denying that the Celine show is now one of the most anticipated of the season.
This autumn, her clothes were even more pared back than usual as the designer took simple, classic pieces and put her signature twist on them to achieve the modern, almost architectural look for which she is known.
On a lined tennis court surrounded by stadium seating, models walked purposefully up and down the runway in a series of intelligently layered looks. The deceptively simple pieces are often twisted and completely reworked into something more conceptual, from the silk slip dresses that are knotted to the side to the oversized asymmetric sweaters. All of these were worn over long, flared trousers, which infused the catwalk with a breed of leisurely elegance.
The outerwear was a particular highlight, from the ultra-modern trenches to the unstructured capes with their cape-like hoods. The bags themselves were ordinary, but the way the Celine woman wears them is anything but; pouches strapped to waists, totes worn across the chest, clutches dangling from straps wrapped around a wrist.
Flashes of blue and green bought to life Philo’s signature neutral palette of warm beige, cream and black, adding to the hundreds of little quirks that her “basics” feel anything but basic. An understated yet sophisticated collection, which will surely go down well with the army of Celine fans out there.
Grace Cain